Sometimes you think you are unable to handle your lawn in a dry season and you need a professional to do this job. Maintaining a healthy and green lawn is a whole different ballgame. But believe me; you don’t need specialists for this.
Habituate yourself to proper maintenance practices for your lawn and continue it throughout the year. These practices include preparing quality soil, adequate irrigation and feeding, mowing efficiently, taking the weeds and thatches away and few more.
Just follow these ten tips here:
Make the soil healthy
Having quality soil is the first important step for a healthy lawn. Plants grow happily on the good land that you prepare according to their needs. Well, the earth should have a Ph of 6 to 6.5 for planting grasses. If the ground of your lawn crosses this range upward or downward, adjust it. Local extension service would help you a lot in testing soil and advising you what to do.
It is all very well having the following three nutrients in soil:
Nitrogen makes the plant greener and thicker, and you are going to notice blade and leaf growing faster after applying. Apply it once a year. Potassium and phosphorus are more constant in the soil if your lawn is not too sandy. They promote healthy roots and sturdiness to fight winter and drought. A new and sandy lawn requires more frequent application of these nutrients.
Use the right food for your lawn. It depends significantly on soil type, your region, weather, and the season you are planting. A well-fed lawn grows thicker and can easily fight the heat.
Many suggest feeding twice a year and sometimes even once in the spring is enough for a healthy lawn. But we believe in feeding four times a year for complete nutrients for a lush yard. If not possible, spring and autumn are the paramount time when lawn grasses call for food most. Nitrogen-rich fertilizer is better in spring while fertilizer with phosphate and potash is advised for autumn.
Spring fertilization promotes a thicker home lawn, but if you do this job at early spring or late-fall; your lawn will green up more. Grass grows deep root in a cold season and helps a better growth in the spring.
Suitable mower and mowing height
Buying a wrong lawn mower would cost you a lot. Lawnmowers are particular on their power and appearance to meets the demands of mowing of all grades of the lawn. Factors determining suitable mower are:
- Want to mow the residential lawn or have a business purpose? Push mowers are capable of mowing some small yard whereas large lawn tractors are for more giant lands.
- Flat terrains? Manual push mower or riding mower matches the jobs. But they are not easy on slopes. A self-propelled push mower is super for hanging on the hills well.
- A mulching-type mower with a bigger deck will collect much grasses and debris and recycle the herbs as well.
Proper mowing practices make a huge difference to your lawn quality. Don’t mow too short. Set your mower deck at its highest setting to prevent scalping the lawn. Long grasses push for longer roots that can get water and nutrients efficiently. Specialists suggest cutting 1/3 of the grass blade in a single mowing.
If you follow this rule, you need frequent mowing as you are not cutting it too short at a time. Start mowing when the grasses are dry enough to give it a clean cut.
Mulching Lawn Clippings
It’s a whole lot of time-consuming that you bag up the clippings and carry them to through away. Do you know your cut grass adds 25-30% extra nitrogen to your yard soil when they decompose? Mulched grasses are free fertilizer for your lawn.
So, unlike many others, pick a self-mulching mower and forget bagging up. This mower will leave the grass clippings on the lawn that is great also for retaining the moisture of the soil.
If you don’t have such a mower, adding a mulching attachment to the existing one makes your task trouble-free.
Premium Seeds and reseeding
Selecting a premium type of seeds of turfgrass determines your lawns good appearance. Most homeowners would feel guilty for making this mistake. Choose a beautiful collection of seeds not having weed or other grains. Planting any seeds available to you will cost your time and money in the long run.
Try a variety while you are picking seeds for a mower. Bluegrass soft and green but they can’t endure hot heat, thus making your lawn prone to sunburn. We suggest some fescue planting as well those are long-lasting and will save your yard from turning to a brown one. Together they are going to make you feel a softer, greener and thicker lawn that looks lush and full
In the fall, the older grass becomes thin and damaged by diseases, weeds, and drought. They are now more vulnerable to the scorching heat of summer. This is the time you overseed your lawn to thicken it up. Keep watering the reseeding area minimum 3-4 times a day and reduce this to twice a day after a few days. When seedlings are rooted enough, they are more stable and need less moisture.
Adding sod is also not a bad idea to turn your thin lawn to lush and thicker grass. You have to cut out the affected patch of lawn. Clean the soil with a garden rake and apply fertilizer before inserting the sod over the soil. Water frequently like the reseeding process and continue until they grow roots probably within two weeks.
Weeds don’t let your lawn grow healthier. They are easily accessible, especially when your lawn is affected and become lean. So, thickening up the lawn by reseeding or other methods is the best way to prevent them.
Mowing too short causes the grasses to develop a week root system that results in a thin lawn. Weeds attack this lawn type, and grasses can’t fight with them to get nutrients. Besides, irregular irrigation and fertilization also encourage weed invasion.
Pulling the weeds out from your lawn is no one’s idea of fun. So go for the prevention. Watering and feeding regularly and mowing the lawn at a maximum height are some tips for weed management.
Thatch is made up of dry leaves, grass and root stem and build up between the soil and lawn surface. Dry patches felt spongy while walking is the sign of this buildup.
Removing thatch is vital to prevent insects and diseases. They don’t even allow roots to grow more in-depth because they act as blockage while water and nutrients are penetrating the soil. Scarification is the process of raking the leaves and thatches from the lawn using proper tools.
Once again proper watering, fertilizing and mowing at the right height are recommended for a thatch free lawn.
Don’t cut a wet lawn
Mowing a soggy lawn is a bad idea because you are going to bring an uneven haircut for your lovely lawn. The blades of mower get to stick together as they are fighting against wet grasses, some of those go flat under the wheels. After finishing mowing over, they spring back to their position, leaving the lawn an uneven and ragged one. The clippings can clog the mower deck, which requires your hard labor to clean it. Besides, the wet lawn is slippery, and you might run out of control of the machine and get injured severely.
Wait till the grasses are dry after a rainstorm.
Over-watering disrupts the root system and gives you a horrible yellow lawn. How? Roots get water easily from the surface and become dependent on it. Eventually, the grasses don’t push their origin deeper. So, water less frequently but deeper to make roots feel encouraged going deeper.
Make sure you are not watering at the wrong time. Best time of watering is evening avoiding the day time of 10 am-6pm when it has already started to cool down. Water won’t get evaporated in the sun either, and grass plants might enjoy drinking.
Watering once a week is ok in the spring and late fall. But during a boiling summer, you might do the job 2-3 times per week. It’s worth mentioning that if your grass is mowed too short, you are doing extra work for you to water more often.
Insect and Disease Management
You need a close inspection for pest and diseases that infest your lawn. Their detection is quite a tough task, but their harmful presence causes tremendous damages to your yard. However, moisture lawn is less susceptible to insects but still not out of danger.
Grubs, sod web-worms, bluegrass bill-bug, and turf grass scale, are some common insects that affect lawn most. Watering, aeration of the soil and throwing out the thatches will help get rid of them.
Over-fertilization and minimum irrigation prop up lawn diseases. Make sure the lawn stays moist. Over seeding and renovation are reasonable steps to repair your affected area of the garden.
If you maintain a healthy lawn, you don’t need to be afraid of pest and diseases.
Don’t look at the other side of the fence, whether your neighbor’s lawn is much greener than that of you or not. Make a regular maintenance schedule for your lawn and do all the essential jobs of maintenance regularly. I’m sure; you will find a much better yard this spring that will be the envy of your neighbor.